With Germany now ranked among the top five culinary countries in the world with a record 340 restaurants awarded stars in 2024’s Michelin Guide, the nation’s culinary excellence has never been more prominent. Among its celebrated chefs, Christoph Rüffer stands as a defining figure.

At the helm of two-Michelin-starred Haerlin at Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten since 2002, Rüffer has played an integral role in shaping the German fine-dining landscape. His culinary foundation was built at Le Gourmet in Munich, where he mastered classic haute cuisine before refining his skills under the mentorship of Henri Bach at Hotel Résidence in Essen and Claus-Peter Lumpp at Hotel Bareiss in Baiersbronn.

Now, at Restaurant Haerlin within Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten, which was recently awarded its third Michelin-star, Rüffer offers guests a journey through the seasons. The focus is on sophisticated compositions characterised by fresh, seasonal products, cleverly fused flavours and sometimes even surprising textures.

We chat with him about his upbringing in Germany, his favourite dish at Haerlin, and the inspiration behind his next project.

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When did you first fall in love with cooking?

I first fell in love with cooking at the age of 15, when I saw a German television show called Eating Like God in Germany. It featured some of the country’s most talented chefs presenting their dishes and restaurants. I was fascinated by their passion, precision, and the beauty of what they created. That moment really sparked something in me, it was the beginning of my culinary journey.

How would you describe your culinary style?

I strive to express the beauty and purity of nature in my dishes. My style is rooted in craftsmanship, with a strong emphasis on the art of sauce-making. I believe in clarity and honesty on the plate, never more than three core flavours per course, so that each ingredient can truly shine. Simplicity, when executed with precision, is powerful.

What is your culinary vision for the menu at Restaurant Haerlin?

My vision is to showcase the incredible variety and quality of regional products (particularly lentils and other pulses) from the best local producers. Each ingredient deserves to be presented in a way that highlights its optimal flavour and texture. I want our guests to experience the depth of what our local landscape has to offer, elevated through thoughtful technique.

Do you have a favourite dish on the menu?

At the moment, my favourite main course is beef from Friesland, just north of Hamburg. It’s served with young wild herbs, stuffed morels and an intense XO sauce. For dessert, I absolutely love the braised apple with oat ganache and iced wild chervil, created by our pastry chef Margeaux Meis. It’s a dream of a dish: balanced, delicate, and deeply satisfying.

What is the most important lesson you’ve learned during your career?

One of the most valuable lessons I’ve learned is the importance of finding a balance between meeting guest expectations and supporting the needs of the team. A positive, respectful work atmosphere is essential to long-term success. I’m proud that we’ve built exactly that here at Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten.

What are the biggest challenges faced by the hospitality sector at the moment, and how are you tackling them?

Staffing and sustainability are two of the biggest challenges right now. For us, the solution lies in fostering a great working environment and focusing on what we can source locally. Building strong relationships with nearby producers, farmers, fishermen and hunters, helps us offer something truly fresh and authentic while reducing our environmental impact.

 © Jan-Peter Westermann

Which chefs have inspired you during your career?

I was deeply inspired by my time at the Restaurant Résidence in Essen under chef Berthold Bühler. His originality, precision, and creativity left a lasting impression on me. That experience shaped my approach to cooking in many ways.

Which new sustainability initiatives are working well for you at the moment?

Sustainability is at the core of everything we do. For me, that means returning to a more regional way of cooking, using ingredients from nearby, in season, and minimising food waste. It’s not only a resource-saving approach but also one that respects the rhythm of nature.

Our collaboration with local producers has been incredibly rewarding. We’ve found exceptional partners among the farmers, fishermen, and hunters in the Hamburg area. These relationships allow us to source top-quality ingredients within a short distance, ensuring both freshness and a smaller ecological footprint.

What would you like your next project to be?

I’m currently working on a small handbook for our guests, featuring stories and background information about our suppliers. Each guest will receive a copy as a gift at the end of their meal, along with a handwritten recipe from me. It’s a way to share not just a meal, but a connection to the people and the land behind each ingredient.

CREDITS
Main Image: © Max Arens