Interview: Deepak Mallya on thirteen years at The Ritz London

Deepak Mallya has been working in the kitchens of The Ritz London for over thirteen years, beginning his hotel journey as an apprentice at just 18. Most recently appointed Head Chef, he now supports John Williams MBE and leads, as second-in-command, a brigade of more than sixty chefs across the two Michelin-starred Ritz Restaurant, Afternoon Tea at The Ritz, The Rivoli Bar, in-room dining, private dining and banqueting.

From the moment he first stepped into a professional kitchen, Mallya was captivated by its energy, camaraderie and precision. Beyond The Ritz, his influence continues to grow. He is a member of the Royal Academy of Culinary Arts and a disciple of Le Conseil Magistral des Disciples d’Auguste Escoffier. His accolades include winning the UK final of the Le Taittinger International Culinary Prize in 2021, representing the UK at the international finals in Paris in 2022 and receiving a Caterer Acorn Award in the same year.

In our interview, we pick his brains about falling in love with cooking, defining a classical-yet-modern cooking style and preserving the culinary elegance of The Ritz London.


When did you first fall in love with cooking?

I’ve always loved food, but cooking was never something I imagined doing myself. In my teenage years, I took a part-time job as a luggage porter in a small hotel in Bournemouth, convinced that hotel management was my future. During the busy festive period, I picked up a few shifts in the pot wash and from the moment I stepped into the kitchen, I was captivated by the fast pace, the camaraderie and the discipline. It was there that my love of cooking began.

How would you describe your culinary style?

Classical and flavour-focused. I trained under Chef John Williams at The Ritz London, where I have spent the past fourteen years learning the foundations of classical French gastronomy and using some of the finest ingredients. Drawing from this training, I have developed my own approach, combining classical technique with modern innovation to create dishes that honour both the heritage and culinary history of The Ritz.

What is your culinary vision for the menu?

My culinary vision is to honour the already well-established foundations that define The Ritz. Elegance, generosity and timelessness are at the heart of the property’s identity, and it is essential that the food reflects and enhances these values.

This vision extends beyond the menu itself to the entire guest experience. The Ritz should remain a place where guests come to enjoy something special and unique, where the finest quality produce is showcased through a cuisine rooted in classical tradition and enhanced by modern innovation. We must continue to be a destination where the very best of tradition is celebrated, complemented by flawless and elegant tableside theatre, and delivered through refined, genuine and personable service.

Do you have a favourite dish on the menu?

Pigeon à la Presse is one of my favourites. We are incredibly privileged to have the facilities and front-of-house expertise required to showcase such a unique offering. It is a deceptively simple dish, relying on the quality of the product and the precise execution of the sauce. Yet it has the capability to leave lasting memories in both theatre and flavour.  

What are the biggest challenges faced by the hospitality sector at the moment and how are you tackling them?

Hospitality faces many challenges, now more than ever: from staffing shortages to rising costs and wider economic pressures. We are extremely grateful to work within such a nurturing and supportive environment, beginning at the very top. This means we have sufficient, well-cared-for staff, can procure ingredients of exceptional quality, and ultimately, deliver memorable experiences for our guests and remain relevant to today’s diners.

Which chefs have inspired you?  

Any chef who has truly learned their craft, worked their way up through the kitchen brigade, and continues to thrive is inspirational to me. It is an incredibly challenging career, and to see those who have persevered and built a successful path through dedication and hard work is something I deeply admire.

There are, of course, chefs who have personally shaped my career and inspired me along the way. John Williams, Adam Smith and Spencer Metzger. Working alongside them and witnessing their approach, discipline and relentless pursuit of perfection has been truly motivating.

What is your approach to sustainability in your cooking?  

We work with some great suppliers from around the UK, who supply us with the best British produce. Some of our herb growers pick-to-order, and deliver the same day. We minimise waste where possible, and are open-minded about new ingredients and suppliers – which is key.

What would you like your next project to be?  

I would like to continue to develop the team and the culture at the Ritz. We have really been building relationships with both front and back-of-house staff to create a harmony within all of the outlets: from afternoon tea in the Palm Court, The Rivoli Bar and the Restaurant and I would love to see these relationships grow even further.

What is your favourite dish, and who cooks it?  

The chocolate tart at L’ambroisie in Paris – I have always much preferred savoury dishes to sweet, but that chocolate tart is something I’ll never forget. My favourite overall meal would be at Ynyshir by Gareth Ward. Out of the many courses, it would be impossible to choose a favourite.

But, for comfort it would be my grandmother’s dhal and rice. I still remember the exact taste when I first went to India to visit her over 20 years ago – it’s simply delicious. Something that has very few ingredients and seems very achievable to make, but I’ve tried many times over the years and it just isn’t the same!

CREDITS
Portrait Photography: © John Carey
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