Interview: Joel Fredrick Ndungu’s culinary vision at Mara Plains Camp
‘Dessert Extraordinaire’ Chef Joel Fredrick Ndungu has been delighting guests at Mara Plains Camp since 2021, bringing his refined pastry skills and creative vision to one of Kenya’s most exclusive safari destinations. His culinary journey includes a range of roles, from Executive Sous Chef at the European Union Embassy in Mogadishu to Pastry Chef at Kilimanjaro Food Court.
Mara Plains Camp, a Relais & Châteaux-accredited property within Great Plains Réserve Collection, is nestled in the 35,000-acre private Olare Motorogi Conservancy, on the edge of the world-famous Maasai Mara National Reserve. Here, Chef Ndungu shares his inspirations, signature dishes and how he brings world-class pastry artistry to the heart of the African wilderness.
When did you first fall in love with cooking?
I fell in love with cooking at a tender age. It wasn’t until I was 8 years old that my mum allowed me in the kitchen, as only then could I reach the working surface and the gas burner. She was my first mentor in the kitchen and made food so good that all the neighbours envied the aromas coming from our house. This sparked my inspiration to follow in her footsteps and become a young cook. My mother has been my foundation and moulded me into the chef I am today.
How would you describe your culinary style?
In my college days, I leaned towards complicated dishes, trying to find my own path and develop a signature style. Being a Kenyan chef, I’ve met my fair share of chefs, both local and international, and my art has roots in many different kitchens and the great chefs I’ve worked with, as well as guests from all over the world. I like to find healthier, creative alternatives to dishes, including plant-based desserts, which many chefs tend to avoid. I would say my style is global, combining my experience and knowledge with both classical and modern flavours.
What is your culinary vision for the menu at Mara Plains Camp?
My vision is to fulfil the company’s goal of healthier living, while working hand-in-hand with our Executive Chef to create a five-star food experience using organic, locally sourced ingredients. Fresh produce is fundamental. I make sure all my pastries and desserts are nutritionally fit and aligned with the core values and standards of Great Plains. My approach is always flexible, considering guests’ dietary needs, allergies, preferences and current food trends.
Do you have a favourite dish on the menu?
The plant-based tiramisu is one of my signature dishes. I created it as a challenge, inspired by the original classic tiramisu made in 1960 by one of the greatest founding fathers of pastry, Chef Roberto of Le Beccherie restaurant. I wanted to recreate this phenomenal dessert with the same texture, flavour and depth, but make it plant-based. I tried different approaches and failed almost ten times until I finally got the right mix of ingredients, and boom! I had a breakthrough. My plant-based version was born. It’s had great reviews from many of our guests at the Camp, and a lot were surprised to find such creativity in Kenya, especially at Great Plains.
What is the most important lesson you’ve learned during your career?
That a limited mindset creates limited productivity. You must master the pain of failing before you can enjoy the confidence and excitement of winning. Always cook from the heart, or don’t cook at all. Focus on originality – it’s what makes your work and style stand out.
What are the biggest challenges faced by the hospitality sector at the moment, and how are you tackling them?
It’s tricky to find skilful chefs who cook from the heart, rather than just for a salary. Another challenge is the evolving dietary needs and preferences of guests. We’ve been surprised by how many people are now avoiding processed foods. In our kitchens, we have strict rules around using canned or processed products. We source our ingredients locally and grow most of what we use ourselves. We also avoid chemical pesticides and instead, we make our own natural ones using spices. That way, all our food remains organic and gut-friendly.
Another challenge is the rise of Airbnb-style manyattas and fly camps, which are growing quickly. These allow guests to travel across larger landscapes and have a broader safari experience, so fewer are staying in one place for their whole trip. We’re addressing this by building Great Plains properties in remote areas across Kenya, Botswana, and Zimbabwe. Each location is unique but shares the same inspiring culinary approach.
Which chefs have inspired you?
Nina Metayer, Reynold Poernomo, Cedric Grolet, Mary Berry, Jamie Oliver, Gordon Ramsey and Buddy Valastro.
What would you like your next project to be?
I’ve loved Halloween-themed projects ever since culinary college, when I got hooked on the Food Network’s Halloween competition with Buddy Valastro. I was amazed by the skills those chefs had, and I dreamed of doing the same. One day, I hope to share a kitchen with those pastry legends!
What is your favourite dish, and who cooks it?
Rabbit Hole by Chef Reynold Poernomo. This dessert concept shows how rabbits store their sweet carrot delicacies in their burrows. Poernomo creates a dessert and hides it inside the “rabbit burrow”, when hot caramel sauce is poured over the base, the pudding opens to reveal the hidden creation. The skills involved are purely magical, and only someone truly talented could pull off such a project. That kind of theatrical cooking is what inspires my own work.
