Chef Luke Holder has worked in Michelin-starred kitchens all over the globe. After successful stints in Thailand, Dubai and Italy, he returned to England in 2013 to launch Hartnett Holder & Co (HH&Co) with Angela Hartnett at Lime Wood hotel in the New Forest – a rustic, Italian-inspired restaurant that’s become a destination for both its food and ethos. 

More than anything, Holder is a passionate advocate for sustainable and ethical hospitality. Over the past decade, he’s championed positive industry change, from launching Chefs Against Plastic campaign to partnering with purpose-driven suppliers, such as Belu Water.

Now, HH&Co. is taking its commitment to sourcing local produce a step further, with the purchase of an allotment at Four Acre Farm which will supply ingredients throughout the year as well as The Forest Kitchen – a pop-up outdoor, wood-fired restaurant launching this summer.

In our interview, Holder dives into what serving with purpose means to him and how this has fuelled his approach to running restaurants.

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When did you first fall in love with cooking?

I wouldn’t say there was one specific moment, but certainly the joyful feeling of shared dining experience. Serving food that is shared and enjoyed by all is definitely a passion of mine. I suppose the first time I really started cooking more, and for others, was once I had finished school and I was meant to be studying for my GCSE’s. I remember making salads using raspberry vinegar for a dressing and that is a moment I really started loving cooking.

How would you describe your culinary style?

My culinary style is rooted in seasonality and simplicity, with a strong influence from traditional Italian cooking, courtesy of Angela. I love the idea of food bringing people together, so many of our dishes are designed for sharing. It’s about letting great ingredients speak for themselves – fresh, honest flavours served in a way that encourages connection around the table. If possible I like a little something that would drive the curiosity of the guests while eating.

What is your culinary vision for the menu at HH&Co?

Sticking to what we know how to do and not getting side tracked by the current food fads. I think it is a dangerous game to move with the current trends, so I try to keep a focus on who we are and what we do well. Keeping it fresh is understanding the changing requirements of your guests.

Currently more people have a more flexible approach to dining, such as choosing to limit the amount of gluten, meat and dairy they are consuming, so our menus reflect that without losing the essence of who we are. Focusing on your guests creates loyalty and looking after them, recognising them is so important.

Do you have a favourite dish on the menu?

I am loving our Dover Sole for two at the moment. Expertly sourced, freshly prepared and beautifully presented. You can’t beat a perfectly grilled fresh fish.

What is the most important lesson you’ve learned during your career?

Robin Hutson, Chairman of Lime Wood Group, has taught me how to view what we do from the guests’ eyes. Kitchens and chefs can become quite blindsided by their own self-importance and forget about what the guests are hoping for and expecting. He has shown me how to see the little details – things like launching a vegetarian menu and putting it on A5 paper when your main menu is in A3 – how does that feel for the person holding the smaller menu?

The feel, and the atmosphere of a restaurant make a difference to how you walk away feeling. Hospitality is that feeling, it is not a service. Kitchens, if the tone isn’t right, can have a huge negative effect on how the whole team feels and that imparts on the guests.

What are the biggest challenges faced by the hospitality sector at the moment, and how are you tackling them?

One of the biggest challenges right now is attracting and retaining passionate, skilled people. The industry has changed, and we need to adapt by creating kitchens and workplaces where people feel valued, inspired and supported – something we are incredibly passionate about.

At Lime Wood, we’re tackling this by investing in training, encouraging creativity, and building strong connections, from farm to kitchen – so the team feels truly part of something meaningful. One big concern is the over promotion of people before they are ready. We are all guilty of it and know I have done it many times, but what leads me to be concerned is not where are the young people we need to enter the industry, but where are the next generations of head chefs? Leadership and ‘know how’ comes from experience and I am concerned we aren’t building enough resilience in our future head chefs.

Photography: © Helen Cathcart

Which chefs have inspired you during your career?

Angela of course – I think the thing I’ve learnt the most from her is it’s more than just the plate of food in front of you, it’s the ambience, the culture, the atmosphere and the approach.

We are both lucky enough to have a great group of friends doing amazing things and I love going to visit them and being inspired by them. Mitch Tonks, Val Warner, Nathan Outlaw, Phil Howard. The list goes on.

I’ve also been heavily inspired by places, having been lucky enough to live and work all over the world, from Dubai to Florence, Thailand and London. Being brought up in the Middle East and Italy, where the culture of eating is much more family orientated, definitely influenced the way I want my customers to feel.

Which new sustainability initiatives are working well for you at the moment?

One of the most exciting sustainability initiatives we’ve been developing is our partnership with Four Acre Farm, a no dig farm just down the road from Lime Wood. It’s all about narrowing the distance between field and fork. Every week, Kate from the farm brings in a fresh delivery of hyper-seasonal produce, and the team and I build our menus around whatever is in abundance.

It is a creative process that not only celebrates ingredients at their best, but also helps us reduce waste by making the most of gluts and long-lost varieties that aren’t commercially grown anymore. We’re also getting our chefs out on the farm – planting, harvesting and connecting with the land. It’s about growing for flavour, not efficiency, and creating a deeper respect for the soil and the people who work it.

What is your favourite dish, and who cooks it? 

Chicken and rice in Koh Samui from a street hut outside of Bophut village with the best tamarind dressing ever.