Château la Commaraine opens fine-dining restaurant, Le VIII

Le VIII, the fine-dining restaurant at Château la Commaraine, opens this month.

Château la Commaraine reopened this spring following a five-year restoration. The estate’s Clos de la Commaraine, a 3.63-hectare Premier Cru monopole vineyard, is located within Pommard, an appellation known for its red wines.

Le VIII occupies the château’s former vaulted cellar, combining exposed stone with contemporary furniture and a central light fixture by Studio Windfall. An open kitchen faces the dining room.

The restaurant’s culinary vision is led by Christophe Raoux, who also oversees the Michelin-starred restaurant at sister property Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa, with Head Chef Jérôme Rioux responsible for the day-to-day kitchen operation.

The name Le VIII refers to the eight sub-plots that make up the estate’s Clos de la Commaraine. Each is worked individually in the vineyard, an approach reflected in Raoux’s treatment of individual ingredients on the menu.

The menu is informed by winemaker Paul Krug’s biodynamic approach at Domaine de la Commaraine, with ingredients treated individually through different textures, temperatures and techniques.

Dishes include Beauce onion with rich jus and Madagascar pepper soubise; summer mushroom ravioli with mushroom extraction and coffee rub; Breton lobster with tarragon and sot-l’y-laisse; and Charolles beef with brocoletti and confit paleron. Pastry chef Rémi Guérin’s desserts include rhubarb from Maison Vermès with green shiso.

Sommelier Victor Petitot has curated a wine list centred on the estate’s Clos de la Commaraine, alongside Domaine de la Commaraine bottlings including Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru Roncière and Aux Bousselots, and Volnay Premier Cru En Champans. The vineyards are overseen by Paul Krug of the Krug Champagne family.

The dining room was created with contributions from several artisans, including Nautilus and Atelier Entre Terre, Menuiserie Julien Dureuil and Atelier 1515.

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