Interview: Matt Heeley on showcasing Scotland’s natural larder at Newhall Mains
Set within the Highland estate of Newhall Mains, Spruce is a restaurant rooted in its surroundings. Led by Head Chef Matt Heeley, formerly of The Newt in Somerset, the restaurant showcases seasonal British produce with a particular emphasis on Scotland’s natural larder, from hand-dived Orkney scallops and Highland-reared meat to ingredients foraged from the estate and surrounding woodland.
Named after the spruce tip, a wild herb found throughout the local area, and a reference to Howard Hughes’ famous “Spruce Goose” aircraft, the restaurant combines a strong sense of place with an ingredient-led approach to cooking. Menus change regularly to reflect the seasons, highlighting produce at its peak. Think wild mushrooms served on toasted mushroom brioche with poached hen’s egg and autumn truffle, or pork loin accompanied by parsley root, smoked turnip and a pork jus, finished with pickled mustard seeds.
In our interview, Heeley discusses the experiences that shaped his culinary career, his vision for Spruce and the opportunities and challenges facing hospitality today.
When did you first fall in love with cooking?
I enjoyed being in the kitchen from a young age and always loved experimenting with food. However, I truly fell in love with cooking when I moved to London and joined Angela Hartnett’s Murano. It was the first Michelin-starred kitchen I worked in. I was completely inspired by the energy, flavours and exceptional quality of the ingredients. That experience confirmed that cooking was what I wanted to dedicate myself to.
How would you describe your culinary style?
Working under Angela taught me the importance of respecting high-quality ingredients and not overcomplicating them. I then refined my approach at The Square under Phil Howard and Gary Foulkes, where precision, consistency and attention to detail were paramount. My style is ingredient-led, focusing on allowing produce to speak for itself while creating memorable flavours through clean, restrained cooking.
What is your culinary vision for the menu at Spruce?
My vision for Spruce is to celebrate the incredible produce Scotland has to offer and share its story with every guest. I’m passionate about showcasing seasonal, locally sourced ingredients and incorporating foraged elements where appropriate. The aim is to create dishes that feel connected to the landscape, highlighting the quality and character the Scottish larder has to offer while delivering a memorable dining experience.
Do you have a favourite dish on the menu?
At the moment, it’s our cured Orkney scallops with Isle of Wight tomatoes and a vinaigrette made from spruce vinegar and syrup that we preserve. It’s a dish that perfectly reflects our approach to cooking-light, clean, seasonal and packed full of fresh flavour.
What is the most important lesson you’ve learned during your career?
Be patient and trust the process. Success doesn’t happen overnight. Work hard, listen to those around you, stay curious and never stop exploring new techniques & flavours.
What are the biggest challenges faced by the hospitality sector at the moment and how are you tackling them?
Rising costs continue to be one of the biggest challenges for the industry. Balancing affordability for guests while maintaining the quality and standards we strive for is increasingly difficult. At the same time, ensuring the wellbeing and development of our team remains a top priority. We focus on careful sourcing, minimising waste and creating a positive working environment to help navigate these challenges.
Which chefs have inspired you?
I’ve been fortunate to work with and learn from some incredible chefs including Angela Hartnett, Neil Borthwhick and Gary Foulkes. Each has a very different style and approach, but all have influenced the way I cook today. From respecting ingredients and simplicity to precision and consistency, I’ve taken valuable lessons from each of them.
What is your favourite dish, and who cooks it?
One dish that has really stayed with me is José Pizarro’s grilled cuttlefish with Cinco Jotas Jamón Ibérico and potato sauce. The balance of flavours and simplicity of the dish allowed every ingredient to shine. It was so good, I immediately ordered a second portion!
