Interview: Nicola Fanfano on authentic Umbrian cuisine at Rastrello

Set within a restored 14th-century palazzo in the medieval Umbrian village of Panicale, Rastrello is a boutique, B Corp-certified hotel home to farm-to-table restaurant, Cucina e Giardino, led by regional chef Nicola Fanfano. Overlooking Lake Trasimeno, the venue offers an authentic expression of Italian cuisine centred around respect for the local land.

Born just a few kilometres from Panicale, Fanfano’s philosophy is grounded in the belief that the best dishes come from honest ingredients treated with care. His seasonal menus celebrate Umbrian traditions through meals created using vegetables freshly harvested from the property’s garden and farm, Rastrello’s own extra virgin olive oil, fish from nearby Lake Trasimeno and regional meats such as Chianina beef and wild boar.

Signatures include onion parmigiana made with sweet red onions from Cannara, beef tartare marinated in basil with panzanella, and spaghetti with white beef ragù, mint and broad beans served with Parmigiano Reggiano and aglione fondue.

In our interview, Fanfano reflects on his earliest memories of cooking and how sustainable practices naturally shape the menu at Rastrello.


When did you first fall in love with cooking?

My very first memory connected with cooking is also the moment I fell in love with this profession. It was the Friday before Easter, when everyone typically wakes up early to prepare the traditional Umbrian cheese breads. Easter lunch is something the whole family prepares together, each taking on a different role – some prepared the dough, others managed the wood-fired oven, while someone else cooked lunch. It was the very first kitchen brigade I ever experienced.

How would you describe your culinary style?

I believe the best cuisine is the most simple, based on authentic, intuitive combinations and fresh ingredients, cooked with as little intervention as possible and never overcomplicated or altered.

What is your culinary vision for the menu at Rastrello Cucina e Giardino?

Fortunately, the owners at Rastrello shares the same vision of cooking that I do, so we build our menu seasonally with a strong focus on products coming directly from our own farm – our award-winning extra virgin olive oil, vegetables and aromatic herbs. For everything else we rely on trusted local producers, for legumes, flours, cured meats and cheeses.

At the same time, the international environment I experience every day has encouraged me to broaden my horizons and explore new approaches to cuisine, especially experimenting more with vegetarian and vegan dishes. It has pushed me to look at vegetables not simply as side dishes, but as the true protagonists of a plate, discovering new techniques, combinations and ways of enhancing ingredients while always remaining faithful to our identity and traditions.

Do you have a favourite dish on the menu?

The product that currently gives me the greatest satisfaction is bread. I bake it every day using a sourdough starter, with half white flour and half whole wheat flour that is ground in a water mill not far from Panicale.

But if I absolutely had to choose one dish, it would certainly be our Onion Parmigiana, created with the red onions from Cannara, which remain sweet and delicate. It is a dish I have been making for years and one that has evolved and improved over time. First we steam the sliced onions until soft and then roast them in the oven to dry them slightly, before assembling the parmigiana in the traditional way with fior di latte mozzarella, tomato sauce, Parmigiano Reggiano and a touch of grated lemon zest, finishing it all with a final gratin in the oven.

What is the most important lesson youve learned during your career?

Throughout my career, I have learned many lessons from this profession, but one in particular comes to mind, something I learned at Rastrello – always challenge yourself and never stay in your comfort zone.

What are the biggest challenges faced by the hospitality sector at the moment, and how are you tackling them?

With the increasingly widespread influence of cooking on television and social media, guests today are far more informed and aware of what they eat. As professionals, we therefore need to stay constantly updated on what is happening around us, without changing our own style of cooking.

Which chefs have inspired you? 

There are many chefs who inspire me, especially Italian ones, but the first name that comes to mind is Umbrian chef Gianfranco Vissani as he is a pioneer and transformed modern Italian cuisine, remaining true to its origins but elevating traditional, humble dishes through premium, high-quality ingredients. 

What is your approach to sustainability in your cooking? 

We try as much as possible to minimise waste in the kitchen. Beyond standard recycling practices, at our farm we produce compost using all fruit and vegetable scraps, We grind eggshells to create fertiliser, and our suppliers deliver products in reusable crates that we return so they can be used again. It is our commitment to these practices that earned us our B Corp certification in 2024. 

What would you like your next project to be? 

If I were allowed to dream, we would open a small bakery in Panicale, offering different types of bread, focaccia, sweet and savoury pies, biscuits and some of the Italian baked products that I truly love.

What is your favourite dish, and who cooks it? 

Tortellini in broth made by my late mother-in-law who was from Bologna.

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