With a quietly assured presence at the counter, Hirotaka Wada is a chef defined by a deep respect for tradition and commitment to his craft. Shaped by years of disciplined training, he approaches sushi with the hallmarks of a true Edomae practitioner: precision and an instinctive understanding of balance.

His journey began at the esteemed Kyubey in Tokyo, later moving to Sushi Kanesaka at Palace Hotel Tokyo. During this time, he developed a philosophy centred on seasonality, restraint and a profound reverence for ingredients – principles that continue to guide his work today.

Now bringing this heritage to chef Shinji Kanesaka’s first European restaurant, Sushi Kanesaka at 45 Park Lane, Wada offers an authentic omakase experience. Each piece, from king crab with vinegar sauce to binchotan-grilled Kobe beef with wasabi and shio, is considered in its entirety, from the sourcing of the fish to the balance of the shari.

It all happens behind a discreet first-floor doorway, in a world far removed from the bustling London streets below. Stepping inside feels akin to entering a classic Tokyo sushi bar, where wooden kumiko-panelled interiors pay homage to tradition, carried through in the hinoki ice-chests, first used by sushi chefs in the Edo period and still prized today for their ability to delicately regulate the temperature of fish.

In our interview, Wada reflects on the formative experiences that shaped him, the discipline behind his deceptively simple approach and the evolving challenges of maintaining authenticity in a globalised sushi culture.

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When did you first fall in love with cooking?

I first discovered my passion for cooking at 17, while working in a sushi restaurant. It was the first time I witnessed the full journey of fish becoming sushi. That moment left a lasting impression on me, and from then on, becoming a sushi chef became my dream.

How would you describe your culinary style?

In one phrase, it is the “aesthetics of subtraction.” I focus on enhancing the qualities of each ingredient to their fullest, avoiding anything unnecessary. Behind that simplicity, however, is a foundation of refined skill and experience.

What is your culinary vision for the menu at Sushi Kanesaka?

My vision is to showcase the very best ingredients available at any given time, always respecting seasonality and the origin of the produce. At the same time, I aim to broaden the appeal of sushi, preserving its traditions while thoughtfully adapting to the present.

Do you have a favourite dish on the menu? 

It has to be nigiri. I have a particularly deep passion for tuna, a delicate fish that demands the highest level of skill and care. My favourite moment is when technique and ingredient come together in perfect harmony and become one.

What is the most important lesson you’ve learned during your career?

Never neglect the basics. No matter how much experience you gain, I’ve learnt that everything is built on strong fundamentals such as preparation, knife skills and attention to detail.

What are the biggest challenges facing the hospitality sector at the moment, and how are you tackling them?

Labour shortages and securing a stable supply of high-quality ingredients are significant challenges. In response, we are investing in and focusing on training the next generation of sushi chefs, while also strengthening our relationships with trusted producers to ensure we have a stable supply of ingredients.

Which chefs have inspired you?

I’ve been deeply influenced by my mentor, Chef Shinji Kanesaka, as well as bycraftspeople who continue to embrace new challenges while honouring tradition. I strongly believe in the philosophy of “changing in order to preserve.”

What is your approach to sustainability in your cooking?

We are committed to minimising waste by avoiding over-purchasing and making full use of our ingredients. We also prioritise responsibly sourced fish and seasonal produce, helping to support a more sustainable future for sushi.

What would you like your next project to be?

I would like to create a space that communicates the appeal of sushi to a younger generation, while continuing to share authentic sushi culture internationally. Projects such as our Michelin Series are an important part of this. Following the success of last year’s edition, we are collaborating with a new group of leading chefs, creating a platform for cultural exchange and introducing new audiences to sushi. Through these experiences, we are able to explore different expressions of craftsmanship and seasonality all within an omakase offering.

What is your favourite dish, and who cooks it?

I enjoy all kinds of cuisine, but my favourite is my wife’s home cooking, whatever the dish may be.